Lumps and bumps:
there are a number of diseases that begin this way. (1) tumors or lymphocystis
which are viral in origin and not treatable, (2) fish pox which is also
viral and not treatable (3) various forms of ulcer disease which are
caused by Pseudomonas or Aeromonas and are treatable, (4) HITH or LLE
which has varied causes and treatments, (5) Costia - a parasite that
nearly always causes little red hemorrhages, especially under the chin,
(6) various bacterial diseases caused by such as Columnaris, (7) Neoplasm
Lumps and bumps that suddenly appear are usually bacterial infections.
If the disease process is due to bacteria, it usually resolves by rupture
(like a boil) pretty quickly. The white liquid that oozes out is pus
that is formed when the white blood cells (immune cells) die while killing
bacteria (in general). NEVER TRY TO POP OR SQUEEZE THE LUMP. Like a
boil in humans, squeezing can cause regurgitation of the pus into the
blood stream of the fish with deadly results. It is also not a good
idea to seal a draining wound unless it is bleeding. The most common
bacteria which causes such lumps is Columnaris or Aeromonas.
Wounds that are white on the edges and red in the center are most
typically Aeromonas. Those that are red on the edges and white
in the center are generally Columnaris. Both are gram negative bacteria.
The best treatment for this is any sulfa antibiotic with trimetheprim.
This can be put in the water and mixed with food -- if you can find
Romet B use it.
Some research indicates that certain carbon filter materials may predispose
fish to this disease though the mechanism has not been determined. Better
nutrition (provide calcium/phosphorus/vitamin D supplement), less crowding,
more water changes may help. Change brands (marineland is good) or don't
use filter carbon at all.
Treatment for any other 'bumps' and 'lumps' may be treated by a bath
of potassium permanganate. You can often obtain this at your local pharmacy.
Notes on the use of potassium permanganate. 1 drop of stock PP per gallon
is equal to 2 ppm. This is the concentration used for continuous treatment.
PP is usually used for 3 days, or every other day for 4 treatments.
If water is not clear in 24 hours (looks yellow), change 25-30% of the
water before adding another dose. Light inactivates PP. After adding
the PP, watch for a minimum of 15 minutes to make sure there are no
adverse reaction. Then turn off lights or cover the tank.
Some water seems to inactivate PP rapidly. It should be pink when you
put it in, and stay pink for at least 4 hours to be effective.
Stock PP can be used on a swab on small wounds or patches of white "crud"
on fins. It results in a chemical burn and turns the area dark. Do not
use near the eyes, mouth or gills. Use as a one time application, followed
by Neosporin creme or Panalog (by vet prescription).
Cautionary notes: Some water conditioners can inactivate some medication.
NovAqua and PolyAqua will inactivating metals and quickly inactivates
If you pursue combined RALLY/Kanamycin treatment, use it according to
package label instructions, and add one dose of RALLY every 3 - 5 days.
The active ingredients in RALLY are biodegradable; however, you should
run carbon or a Polyfilter for a few hours (and then remove it) before
adding a repeat dose.
Buy rally here ---> http://www.northcoastmarines.com/rally.html
Hydrogen peroxide is preferred for topical application near the mouth