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flyingfish
New Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 7
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 06:59 pm:       

Hey everyone,
I have a Milenium 3000 hang on back(HOB) filter and Ive decided to give this idea a whirl.
I just purchased some bio-sponge balls. I plan on gutting out the OEM media in my milenium and filling it up with the bio-sponge balls. I do not plan on cleaning this filter much because I do not want to disturb the beneficial bacteria colonies. I do plan on washing out the siphon tube and propeller assembly which come out very easily. I also plan on closing the intake valve or powering off this filter during feedings.

I am not relying on this as my only filter. Im also running an AquaClear 500/110 for mechanical/checmical and a diatom filter occasionaly for extra mechanical or polishing.

I know I am not the first to try this out but I wanted to share my idea. Any/All thoughts welcome.
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russ
Moderator
Username: rsaqua

Post Number: 2706
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Monday, February 13, 2006 - 12:02 am:       

flyingfish,

From what I remember about the Millennium power filters they had a separate plastic component made up of a labyrinth of molded baffles that was employed as the media in which nitrifying bacteria was meant to colonize. I also remember the filter had a venturi adjustment lever that allowed one to inject air into the filter box chamber containing this media (I believe the manufacturer called this a "bio grid"?).

A mechanical filter cartridge was positioned in front of this bio grid in order to 'trap' particulate matter for eventual removal from the filter during regular maintenance. The reason a mechanical filter is needed at all is to capture this particulate matter (through a water flow) to prevent it from decomposing inside the tank and further contributing to both total dissolved solids (TDS), and dissolved organic carbons (DOC)s, thus adding additional waste compounds to the aquarium water.

The reason that mechanical filter media is placed in the water flow 'before' the bio media, is to prevent this particulate matter from 'clogging' the bio media. If the media were allowed to be compromised by excess decomposing waste materials, other bacteria that break down (decays) this matter, will be in direct competition with the nitrifyers for water flow and oxygen resources.

With those points above in mind, picture your 'modified' power filter with bio sponge balls sucking up the same water as your Aqua Clear.

I guess I could have/should have asked why you needed to modify that filter in the first place, but then I wouldn't have been able to impart a mini crash course on filtration theory.





(Message edited by rsaqua on February 13, 2006)
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark....Professionals built the Titanic.
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flyingfish
Junior Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 28
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Monday, February 13, 2006 - 11:27 am:       

OK I was shooting for the more-surface-area-for-nitrifying-bacteria effect. Maybe rigging up some sort of mechanical filter wrapper around the bio media? Im am invisioning a AquaClear type cradle made with filter media on all sides filled with bio-sponge balls.

If I understand correctly, im going to have to filter the water before the bio media to prevent buildup right?

The OEM filter does sit with the "bio-grid" in the back with a mechanical filter downstream not filtering the water with the mechanical element before it hits the "bio-grid"

I am insistent on modifying this filter to use more of its wet/dry, biofilter benefits. Sorry to be persistently stubborn if I am going that route.
I surf fish for stripers
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Randy
Junior Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 56
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 - 09:17 am:       

No need to be sorry, some of the best learning experiences are through these types of experimentations.

One of the best filter I ever created was 6 sponge filters connected to a vertical tube from an undergravel filter. I capped the bottom of the tube, connected all the sponge filters through the side and put a power head on the top.

This was in a cichlid tank and kept the water crystal clear. What I liked about this so much was the ease of cleaning and any food that got sucked to the filter could be picked off by the fish between feedings as they scrounged around for food.

Inventing is cool!
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russ
Ancient Member
Username: rasaqua

Post Number: 3720
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 - 05:34 pm:       

Randy,

I trust there were more than a few holes drilled into the sides of that tube?


Flyingfish,

I started a novel of a thread in response to your proposed modification of this filter. The first eight paragraphs were lost to my stupidity of not starting in Word, then copying it over. Yes, I lost it. The second attempt produced four paragraphs before realizing that the stock impeller assembly for this filter may need to be scapped also. I really would like to offer something up before you complete this endeavor. If you could possible wait another day or two, I promise it will be a doozy.


"For every difficult question, there is an answer that is clear and simple and wrong."
(George Bernard Shaw)
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flyingfish
Junior Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 38
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 - 08:54 pm:       



waits patiently....

take your time. this will be great!!
I surf fish for stripers
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flyingfish
Junior Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 82
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 07:26 pm:       



waits patiently.......LOL
I saw your Micro Worm Culture DIY. Sounds like something I will need for a well rounded diet plan. In all seriousness im not trying to rush you, I just dont want this to die. Take your time.
I surf fish for stripers
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russ
Ancient Member
Username: rasaqua

Post Number: 3738
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 11:33 pm:       

Thanks....

I was trying to locate a shop in my area that might have a Millennium filter in stock. The recommendation I was going to render involved some fairly drastic modification to the impeller assembly. I have a pic of the assembly, but it shows it from the wrong angle. I needed to look at it from the back of the filter box, looking at it from behind, facing forward. I'll have something up on Saturday afternoon.


"For every difficult question, there is an answer that is clear and simple and wrong."
(George Bernard Shaw)
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flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 162
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2006 - 09:03 pm:       

Ok. This filter is soon to be replaced with my Emperor 280. I'll move the Millenium to my new tank when I get it setup. The new tank shouldnt be more then 40 gallons so I dont forsee any need for modification because this filter will be run with my older Millenium 300 and the two together will be sufficient.

My next and only DIY filter will be a sump. I dont think I am too far off in saying that Marineland has perfected the HOB with their line of biowheel filters. I will just buy them from now on and use in tandem with Hagen AquaClears.

What should I put in the extra media compartment of the Emperor?
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
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larry
Regular Member
Username: gomezaddams

Post Number: 659
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2006 - 10:45 am:       

I put ceramic biomedia in mine.Theyre from aquarium products and shaped like little hollow cylinders.
And I agree with you the emperor 400 is the first filter Ive seen that doesnt feel like a downgrade from my old aquamasters.Imo its the best hob on the market.
Waiting will fill
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flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 169
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2006 - 12:17 pm:       

cool thank you.
I have extra ceramic from my AquaClears.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
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