Topics Topics        

Badman's Tropical Fish - Archives * Equipment & DIY * R/o units       


 

These questions and answers are for research or archival use only. There is a wealth of information here and I encourage you to search the areas. For the latest information and to join an active forum please click below.
Badman's message forum


Author Message
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1636
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 10:30 am:       

I`m investing in an r/o. I`m sick of watching my apisto babies die after a few weeks.

Here`s the kit I`m looking at at:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4442700333&sspagename=ADME%3AL %3ARTQ%3ACA%3A1&rd=1

My knowledge of these system is a big fat nuthin'! Any tips you can give me on setting up, operating, whatever, would be very appreciated. If this system is overkill or not good quality, please let me know.

Thanks
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Junior Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 99
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 10:54 am:       

Hi Brad,
I'm new to R/O as well. I have an R/O system 75gpd, that in reality puts out maybe 30gpd. So I would not count on 100gpd, but you most likely don't need that anyway. In my opinion that unit is over kill, but the price is good. I spent $178 at the local fish store. I think that all you/we (Fish keepers) need is a 3 stage unit( sediment,Carbon and membrane).

I am interested in reading responses from others on this. It's a learning experience for me as well.

Randy
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1638
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 11:33 am:       

Well I certainly don`t think I need 100gpd but most 35 gpd I`ve seen were in the same price range so I figured I`d might as well.
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Sully
Ancient Plus
Username: sully

Post Number: 8246
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 03:42 pm:       

check out Lowes or Home Depot. Good units cheap.
"I usually read the obituaries first. There is always the happy chance that one of them will make my day." -- Richard Ames
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 164
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2006 - 09:29 pm:       

Brad,
That unit is decent, you may want to get clear canisters. Mine has those and also has dual inline di canisters to prevent what they call channeling. I dont know if that is overkill but mine works great. I wouldnt suggest anything but 100gpd because fish tanks are very thirsty. My unit puts out 1 gallon in roughly 25 minutes and it is rated 100gpd.

Where are you hooking this up? That unit is awesome for the money. Id stay away from high priced ro units marketed for aquariums. I think your on the right track with this one.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1644
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 10:38 am:       

I`m going to hook it up in my basement. He also has one with a 4.4 gallon tank which, by the sounds of it, I think I want. 4.4 gallon should be about right for water changes on my smaller tank. Waiting 25 minutes for a gallon of water will drive me crazy.

There`s another vendor that sells pretty much the same machine but with clear filter canisters. The first unit comes with a free TDS tester and pressure gauge though (which he insists are essential). The second vendor says he doesn`t know what I`d do with a pressure gauge.

I think the DI unit will be overkill and especially since I`m going to cut it with regualr water anyway, but for the extra 4$, I`ll have it if I ever need it.

Do you have well water or city water? How much pressure are you running it at? What`s your tds before the ro?

Thanks.
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 104
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 11:28 am:       

Hi,
Knowing what your water pressure is, will not do much for you because you can't really change it ( well you can but most likely will not have to).

I have My R/O unit hooked up in the basement also and use it to fill a 20gallon plastic garbage can. I keep a lid on it to keep unwanted contaminates out. I can then treat and prepare the water I need. I also have a 200watt heater that I plug in about 8 hours before I water to use in so the temp is within a degree or 2 of what I need.

See Link:
http://www.badmanstropicalfish.com/species-gallery/gallery_main.html/photo-gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&c at=10148&pos=1

Another thing I have done is:
With my tank on the other side on the wall, I put in a power head in the garbage can and a tube running to the tank I most often need the water for, all I have to do is flip a switch and pump the water in as I'm doing the water change/gravel vacume.

Randy
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 175
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 01:16 pm:       

Brad,
I use a 10g holding tank with a float valve. It automatically shuts off(then heat!). I dont wait for water, I did temporarily before all my equipment came in but now I have my tank & valve. The problem with the pressurized tanks is that they are expensive. 3 gallons isnt enough, unless you plan on purging it into another holding tank. 3 gallons is perfect for drinking supply.

I was going to use tap water blend too but after reading into it more I realized doing that would be counterproductive, in my senario.

I have city water with decent water pressure. My tap water is ice cold in the winters. My tds is 122ppm before ro.

The reason the guy suggests the pressure valve is to test the water pressure feed. If the water pressure isnt high enough the unit will not function properly. This is only an issue if you have a well. There should already be a pressure valve installed in the well's water system. The tds meter is essential in finding the idea rebuild recipe and to test the unit. When the product water isnt 0ppm then its time for maintenance. I plan to flush mine out once or twice a month, if anything is essential on these ro units its the flush and auto-shut off valve.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 107
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 03:33 pm:       

Hi flyingfish,
What float valve did you use?
How did you set it up?
Got any pictures of it?

Randy
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1646
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 03:40 pm:       

Cool. I think if my water was 120 tds, I wouldn`t bother. It`s over 400 though.

If you fill a garbage can, do you use a float valve or do you run and check on it every so often? I can see myself forgetting. The float valve turn it off or just diverts the flow?

I have a pressure valve on my line already right next to my pressure tank. I`m connecting the ro 3 feet away from it. It should serve the purpose right?

I was thinking 4.4 gallons is better than nothing. If I have to start it up and wait for it to ever-so-slowly fill my tank, I think I`ll go nuts!
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 108
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 03:53 pm:       

Hi Brad,
I don't have a shutoff valve connected yet, and yes I have forgotten and had a trickle of water running to the drain. I'm thinking on rigging up something using a toilet float to stop the output flow. The way these things work is the when the output is stopped the pressure builds up and the R/O unit 's valve shuts the waste flow.

If you are connecting the output to a pressurizied storage tank, the R/O unit should shut off when the tank is full.
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

russ
Ancient Member
Username: rasaqua

Post Number: 3831
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 04:49 pm:       

I've used kits by Kent Marine with very good success. Their units are rated for city water pressure.

http://www.kentmarine.com/waterfilters/wfaccs.html
"For every difficult question, there is an answer that is clear and simple and wrong."
(George Bernard Shaw)
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1651
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 11:07 am:       

Oh, I don`t know why I thaught it was electric. I was thinking if the float valve shuts off, and the unit keeps running, something`s gonna give. I get it now.

I still need the 4.4 gallon tank though. Without that, drinking water isn`t feasible, and lady of the house won`t approve the project. I`m gonna put a garbage can on blocks for my tanks though.
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 121
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 11:27 am:       

Hi,
You could rig up a y like connection with shutoff valves. That way when you are making aquarium water you can shut off the input to the drinking water storage tank so it does not drain. You can probably go 1-2 days on 4 gallons of drinking water.
If you go through a day without learning something new, you wasted it!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1655
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 12:23 pm:       

I bet I go months on 4.4 gallons. This is another one of my girlfriend`s ''if I had good water I`d drink 8 glasses a day'' things. It just happens to suite me fine so I`m milking it.

So here`s the plan:

The water will go through the ro, to a Y each with their own check valve. That way one doesn`t draw from the other and the unit should keep them both topped off without me having to think about switching over with ball valves. 1 will go to my garbage can with a float valve, the other to the 4.4. gallon drinking water tank.

From my garbage tank, I`ll pump the water to my tank, which, conveniently, is built into the wall so all the plumbing can be hidden.

The ``home'' version + TDS tester can be had from this guy for 116$ CDN before shipping. The Maximus Plus is 9$ more, but has a DI. For the extra 9$, I think I`ll splurge so my GF really can have good water if she wants.

Sound reasonable?
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 127
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 04:15 pm:       

Sounds great - when are you going to come over to my place to do a nice custom intall for me?

Oh - and post pictures

thanks
If you go through a day without learning something new, you wasted it!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1660
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 04:45 pm:       

Pictures? You should be sending me pics!!!
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

g3H2O
Regular Member
Username: g3h2o

Post Number: 266
Registered: 08-2005
Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 04:47 pm:       

<<For the extra 9$, I think I`ll splurge so my GF really can have good water if she wants>>

Yeeeeaaaaah, hehe, keep telling yourself that the GF is the reason...

lol
- Mike in Arizona
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 179
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 07:23 pm:       

Hi guys,
I am posting pics now.
http://www.upperorchard.net/photos.html
they will be there by the time you read this.

I have a heater that sits in this tank. I use a timer to heat the water after the tank is full. I have the unit setup temporarily now but I will have photos of the complete setup when its finished. I will move it into a more permanent location soon enough.

Brad,
Make sure you plumb the unit for drinking water if your going to use di canisters. This may be an opinion but I think rodi water isnt so great for you. Ro water without di, now I would drink that. your going to have to put a valve before the di canister. If you buy the drinking water kit it should already come setup with these two different outputs. If you arent using di canisters pay no attention to this.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1661
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 09:57 am:       

Thanks for the pics. I thaught you were using a 10 gallon fish tank. I was wondring how you got the water out. That clarifies well.

Did you get the float valve from the same guy?

Apparently di is better for drinking. Aquafina and Dasani are ro/di water from what I`m told.

Mike, as long as she thinks part of it is her`s, I`m safe. lol
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 126
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 11:08 am:       

Hi Brad,
I'll post some pictures this weekend.
Question for you: Can you get check valves? I'll start a search also.
If you go through a day without learning something new, you wasted it!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 181
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 11:34 am:       

I am glad the pics helped. Getting water is just as easy as getting gatorade! RODI water would read 0ppm, I'll buy a Dasani and Aquafina today if I can find both and check the tds. Our bottled water here reads 22ppm. Which I would assume is just ro water.

I got the float valve from the same guy.

From what I read drinking di water is debatable. I will either plumb my current unit for ro water for drinking or get another system for under the sink. I havent decided yet.

http://www.finishing.com/110/17.shtml

After reading that, installing a valve before the di canisters didnt seem so bad.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1662
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 11:56 am:       

Hmmm, that link is cool. Lots of info I didn`t know about. I do know Aquafina has < 10ppm.

I`m not sure if I can get check valves. I imagine anything can be rigged up with a good selection of reducers and parts from a good hardware store. I have no idea what size the line coming from the unit is. I assume it`s all standard though from one manufacturer to the next. I hope so `cause I`m going to check the ebay store flyingfish got his from to pick up the float valve.
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 182
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 12:33 pm:       

The connector is a 1/4" compression fitting for 1/4 tubing. Thats taken right from the description. I am very happy with my purchase, let me know if you have any trouble finding it.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Brad
Advanced Member
Username: brad

Post Number: 1663
Registered: 03-2005
Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 01:04 pm:       

Found it. Ouch!!! 18.78$ plus shipping! I bet I can make one

I`m hittin` the hardware store on Saturday.
Ever feel like you`re flying and drowning at the same time?
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 131
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 09:20 am:       

Hi flyingfish,
That link about di water was kind of interesting. So to sum it up di water is somewhere between the ultimate good for you drink or deadly poison. Go figure that you could get that wide of opinions on plain H2O.
If you go through a day without learning something new, you wasted it!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 185
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 10:35 am:       

Yah. LOL. The di water seems to be aggressive or active, I dont really know how to explain it.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 187
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 06:33 pm:       

HMM. Im going to have to use the garbage can idea this weekend. I want to drain and refill the 90 gallon. Forget waiting 9 days....
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 134
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 09:35 am:       

Question for you Flyingfish,
I see you have 2 DI cannisters on your RO unit. How much water have you produced and how much of your DI did you use up? I'll explain: Since I set up my RO/DI unit I have produced about 100 gallons of water. The material/resin in the DI cannister changes from blue to amber as it is used. Mine if almost entirely amber now, maybe an inch of blue left. So hows your doing?
If you go through a day without learning something new, you wasted it!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 192
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 02:51 pm:       

Ive filled 65gallon and 37gallon tanks. Along with 10gallons every other day. I would say like 200 gallons so far at least. My di canisters are starting to show a bit of discoloration right at the input area of each canister. I dont know if its because the air bubbles seem to settle there or the resin is just being used up.

Someone told me to go by tds meter readings not by the color of the di resin. I monitor the output per hour and tds of the output water. When my output per hour drops I plan to flush the membrane, when my tds isnt 0ppm I will change di resin.

My di resin changed from green to brown as soon as it got wet, it seems to be changing to a lighter brown or amber where I mentioned above.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

Randy
Regular Member
Username: milesteg

Post Number: 139
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 03:28 pm:       

As I understand this, the resin in the DI cannister is strictly for deionizing the output water and does not affect the tds of the water.

Do you know how deionized water is of benefit to freshwater Aquariums?
If you go through a day without learning something new, you wasted it!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 195
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 04:39 pm:       

Well the deionization further "strips" the water after the reverse osmosis. Reverse osmosis alone will produce like 20ppm water. I thought the deionization was just a "final touch".

Heres a definition.
http://chemistry.about.com/library/glossary/bldef52900.htm

The use of a RO/DI unit allows you to rebuild your water the way you want it. For me... it gives me the piece of mind that my water is safe and consistent. Well...except for pH.

Heres a really good link.
http://www.fishlore.com/reverse_osmosis_deionization.htm
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Top of PagePrevious PostNext PostBottom of Page Link To This Post

flyingfish
Regular Member
Username: flyingfish

Post Number: 479
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Monday, April 03, 2006 - 09:54 pm:       

My auto-shutoff valve has malfunctioned. Its probably from me turning off the source water valve so much. I removed the auto-shutoff valve and I am going to use a solenoid valve on a timer. I will still use the float valve on the 10gallon tank to prevent overflow. I will use the solenoid valve instead of the auto-shutoff valve to prevent "waste water" from flowing when the holding tank is full.
Filter and heater $80
65 gallon aquarium $280
Gazing at your Apistogramma for hours on end.....
PRICELESS!!!
Badman's Tropical Fish - Archives * Equipment & DIY * R/o units       

Quick Navigation Links

 

      Administration