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These are all comments I've archived from board messages written by dan/liv2padl, who I have known for a long time and who has a lot of helpful experience and knowledge to impart on subjects having to do with fish. Everything below was authored by him, with only one or two short comments edited in by me [in square brackets].

On the Treatment of Flukes (& General Comments on Medications for Parasitic Skin Infections*)


Praziquantel may not be the most effective med in [the case of egglaying flukes, such as Dactylogyrus (primarily infects gills), as opposed to Gyrodactylus (livebearing flukes that primarily infect skin)]. Gill fluke eggs are resistant to this medication -- only the larvae and adults are susceptible. Praziquantel has been found to affect biofiltration from what I've read ... but I have no personal experience with the drug.

There are several ways to attack flukes depending on the circumstances. Where you wish to treat the entire tank (which I think should be your approach), a simple salt treatment is often the safest and most prudent choice. The dose is four ounces of salt per ten gallons of water, maintained over three weeks to prevent reinfestation with newly-hatched flukes.

To use formalin and compounds containing formalin, you should begin with a scrupulously clean tank with added aeration. Formalin should be added to the aquarium at three drops per gallon in soft water and six drops per gallon in hard water for an 8-hour period followed by a 50% water change. These treatments are a bit more challenging and require careful attention to risk and safety factors.

Alternatively, a bath of up to 15 drops of formalin per gallon can be applied for 30 minutes ­but only with vigorous aeration and constant supervision.

Formalin/malachite green combinations are used according to manufacturers' directions; of the three approaches, this is probably the most effective. Due to synergistic effects, formalin and malachite green together are more powerful than either is alone. Up to three treatments at weekly intervals may be required to knock down persistent fluke problems.


[*True diagnosis with certainty can't be accomplished for any of the above without looking at biopsies or scrapings under the microscope, but what dan offers here are general comments for making the best possible educated guess when going to a vet is not an option.]





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