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Cleaning up hard water spots?

Badmans Tropical Fish Message Center: archive: Cleaning up hard water spots?
  

FishheadJR

Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 12:55 pm
just curious to see if anyone knows of a better way to get rid of the crusty mineral build-up. I loaned my 40 tall to my uncle and he didn't clean it for ayear and I took it back yesterday and gave him my 10 to let him destroy it instead of my 400 dollar show tank...now I need to clean it back up. I use a single edge razor blade to clean the glass on all my tanks (30, 40, and 55 gal)but on the plastic rim I don't want to use the blade cuz I'm afraid of cutting into the plastic.
What can I use to take the crust off that is safe for the fish? just a wet cloth doesn't take it all off and I don't think limeaway or any other cleaning agent will be good for the fish..
I'm way open for suggestions, I hate this messy stuff it just makes my tank look like cr*p and it just doesn't fly with the other 2 tanks that are perfectly clean right beside it..

  

Kick

Monday, August 13, 2001 - 08:36 am
Razor blades are fine for the glass, but they will scratch anything that is plastic if you are not real careful. Do you have this tank back up and running at this moment? If it is empty and you are trying to clean to get ready to get it up and going again, there are a couple of products that you can use. Both are made by Jungle. The names are Seri-clean and Lime-off. However, both of these products are caustic to the fish. They are fine for the hood and filter where you can rinse them real good and then replace on the tank. But since you are talking about the "rim" of the tank, if there are fish and water in it, I don't think I would try to use them. If the tank is set up, you might try a scotch-brite pad used for teflon cookware. Just make sure it is a new one and that it has been rinsed real good with plain water before you use it.

  

FishheadJR

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 12:24 am
Thanks for the idea, I didn't even think about a scotch-brite pad..Yeah, the tank is up and running, needed a place for my piranha in a hurry as my oscars were about to kill them..

This particular tank is a 40 tall (30"x12"x23") any ideas about which canister filter would be the best to use on it that I could attach with a bio-wheel, I like marineland as I use 2 of the emporer 400s on my 55 cichlid tank and it stays clean even tho all the fish in it are really messy and it's somewhat overstocked..

thanks

  

Kick

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 10:05 am
I can't help you with the canister filter.....sorry. I don't have any of them. I just use the emperor 280's and 400's and get along fine. The canisters have always appeared to be too much work for me and not really necessary on any of my tanks. Keep checking back as I am sure some of the others do use the canisters and can help you decide which one would be best.

 

 

  

Rose

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 11:59 am
The Magnum 350 is one of those that you either Love it or you Hate it. I hate those. I had one for 8 months and it imploded on it's self. It never did work right after I had had it for 3 or so months anyway.

On the other hand I now have a Filstar XP2 (Rena/Aquarium Pharm.) I love it. There are many, many things that you can do with this guy. It's one of the new canister filters out there. Let me know if you want any info on it. I'd give it to you now but I have a kid I need to get up. Rose

  

joycedonley

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 03:14 pm
Thanks for the filtration info Rose...I was thinking about them as a future possiblity. I think I'll stick with using Emperor biowheels for my future large tanks or check out the Filstar.

  

lboy

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 04:59 pm
The Rena Filstar and the Eheim canister filters are the best in the market. They're actually a lot less maintainance than other filters, once you get them going. You can go as far as 3 months in between filter cleanings with these babies... given you set it up right of course ;) I'm sure Rose can enlighten us all on how easy her canister is.

  

joycedonley

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 07:20 pm
So Iboy and Rose and Kick what would you use in a 75gal African tank that needs about recommended 6x filtration? Just opinions no debates okay? Thanks much for any input.

  

lboy

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 09:04 pm
From what I know, a Rena Filstar XP3 will do great for a tank that size.

When I mentioned going 3 months in between cleaning the filter, I also indicated that the set up must be done correctly. First of all, a low fish load always reduces the filter load. Second of all, use of more media than what the filter comes with also works well. The Rena Filstars don't come with the BioMax media, but you can use the Fluval BioMax in the Filstar for added biological filtration. You can also purchase Fluval Prefilters, which look like ceramic hollow cylinders, to extend filter life. The Rena also doesn't come with Zeolite, an ammonia remover, but it is nice to have it in there.

  

FishheadJR

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 09:27 pm
I'm looking at getting a canister for the purpose of providing a current for my 3 4"red belly piranha to swim in, they're in a 40 tall and it only has UGF with 2 regent 170gph powerheads, it's clear so far...I would just use the powerheads for the current and put an emporer on it, but the center brace is in the way for a 400 and I've had 2 of the 280s and have had problems with the impellers not priming and not moving near the amount of water that it's supposed to do, so I don't like the smaller ones, I was thinking about a hot magnum with a bio-pro attached for biological purpose. I need something with a high volume of water flow to turn the water as it is a deeper than average tank and the fish in it are somewhat large and are messy when fed live food. I use 2 emporer 400s on my 55 because it is overstocked (2-9" oscars, 2-4"jack dempseys, 3-12"plecos, a 4" pictus cat, 6" lima shovelnose cat, 4 5" black-fin sharks 1 2" firemouth anda 4"striped raphael cat..) I change 40% of the water every 3 days until I can get my new tank finished I know all these fish are more than likely not compatible from water conditions, but they all get along well and are healthy and will be in a better arrangement when I get my 400 gal cichlid tank finished..then also how many of the hot's will I need for the 400 gal? I think about 3 should do, but I might go with 4 cuz the oscars are so messy...sorry it's so long:>( just wanted to get it all in..

  

Rose

Wednesday, August 15, 2001 - 01:32 am
I'll get the info on the Filstars on here some time tomorrow. I'm heading off to bed...been a real long day and I'm tired. Rose

  

joycedonley

Wednesday, August 15, 2001 - 07:28 am
Fishead you can take the powerheads and add 'quick filters' to them if you are interested in current.This filter bypasses the UGF and just attaches to the powerhead. I bought an aquaclear quick at my LFS, but petwarehouse.com sells some generic ones. Also Petwarehouse has I think Rio submersible powerheads which you can put near the bottom of your tank for added water flow. At one time I had the quick filter running in my 29gal African, but decide I had a little to much current with 2 other filters going.

  

russellp

Wednesday, August 15, 2001 - 08:31 pm
Hey, all this sounds familiar on the hard water subject, but I have a slight twist.......I moved to a new home where the water is very hard. I was cycling up my tank, lowering the ph, when over a short period of time(1/2 a day) a white powdery substance (I'm guessing calcium carbonate) precipitated out of the water covering the entire inside of the tank with a white dust.......some of it hardened as a film on the walls of the tank, but most just settled as a thick white layer on plants/gravel. How do I rid my self of this, and in the future, how do I prevent this from happening? I have never seen this before.

  

Rose

Thursday, August 16, 2001 - 03:53 pm
FILSTAR INFO...

Here's the info on the Filstar that I promised I would get out to you yesterday.
For some basic info on it go to
www.aquariumpharm.com/catalog/aquarium/rena/filstar/rexp2.htm

I have this canister filter on one of my tanks so if you have any questions on this filter let me know.

Just a couple of notes...I have found this filter to be easier to operate than the Ehims. From the time I unhook it from the tank and put it back on it takes me 5 minutes. Add the hoses to that and it takes me a total of 10-12 minutes to have it compleatly assembled and operational again. I will make a note of one thing for you, once you have the Filstar hooked back up and the hoses full of water again you MUST let the filter sit for 2 minutes before you plug it back in to operate it again. (That's only when you take the canister and the hoses off the tank. If you just take the canister off and clean it but leave the hoses you can plug it back in immediatly after hooking the canister up to the hoses.)

I think that's all for now. Sorry it took me so long to get this up. It's been one of those weeks. Rose

  

jeff

Thursday, August 16, 2001 - 04:31 pm
rose..I have recently just heard of this filter..sounds good..but,can you use your own media and stuff or are you forced to use their products?..looks kinda pricey?..any comments?

  

joycedonley

Thursday, August 16, 2001 - 09:34 pm
Thanks much Rose...still looking for Jeff's answers too. Hi Jeff glad you didn't get zapped by the computer virus!

  

Kick

Friday, August 17, 2001 - 08:25 am
Russel, well you have thrown a new one at us. I will direct your post to Jeff as maybe he has a clue as what has caused this. You did mention something that I would like to question. Something was said about "lowering the pH". Is there a possibility that whatever you used to lower this did not dissolve correctly? Also I would like to mention that if your water is hard, there is no buffering capacity to allow it to be lowered in the first place and any water changes that are performed will just make it bounce back up.

I am assuming that this is a tank that had been set up previously in your former home and was moved to the new location. Could it be that particles of some kind entered the tank from the move, and the residue was not cleaned out before the resetting of the tank? Could there have been any remodeling dust that has settled in the tank?

If this is, indeed, something in your water causing the white powder you have about 2 choices. I would imagine that an R/O unit would work to rid the water of any elements or you will have to use water from another source. I will make Jeff aware of your post as he might have missed it, and hopefully if none of the above have caused the problem, he will have some sort of answer for you.

  

jeff

Friday, August 17, 2001 - 10:53 am
humm.. russel sounds like a possible silica deposit along with calcuim carb from your water source..causing a reaction between the hard water and glass(calcuim and silica)..getting rid of it might be a problem short of breaking down your tank...if you do have a large deposit you may start seeing diatoms appear..you might try vacuming the stuff up off the bottom..but the glass is either going to have to be scrubbed or the tank totally broke down and cleaned with muriatic acid and rinsed with bicarb...

  

Rose

Friday, August 17, 2001 - 04:21 pm
More Flistar info...
Jeff to answer your questions, I got my Filstar for $50 bucks back in January. I got it at www.bigalsonline.com Someone is always having a sale on these. You just gotta keep an eye out for it.

As for the media, I mix, match and make my own. I do have the Filstar sponges( the ones that go on the bottom basket). I have Ehim stars and rings, my own carbon bags stuffed with Black Dimond carbon, and I think my own micron filter. At any time I want I can add more of one thing or add something differnt to the mix. The only thing that will hold you back with possiblilities is lack of immagination. It has more than enough places to put things and stuff or nothing at all.

If I get another canister filter it WILL be another Filstar. I have no complaints about it at all. Rose

  

jeff

Friday, August 17, 2001 - 04:55 pm
wow sound good..thanks rose

 

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