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This page will give a completely detailed profile of the selected fish, from A to Z. The profiled fish will be chosen randomly by Badman, and will come from the complete genre of tropical fish. New profiles are added on a regular basis. If you would like to submit a profile for the site please contact me. Don't forget to let us know you experiences with this fish by filling out the




Africa
lake Tanganyika

 

 

Neolamprologus brichardi

Neolamprologus brichardi

 

Overview:
    A beautiful peaceful Cichlid. The Brichardi was one of first available cichlids from lake Tanganyika. Fairly easy to keep and breed, they must be kept in a Tanganyikan set up.

Quick stats:
    Listed tank sizes are the minimum
    Size: Up to 4" (10 cm)
    Tank: 36 inches
    Strata: Bottom-middle
    PH: 7.5-9.0
    Hardness: Hard and alkaline. dH range: 8.0-20.0°
    Temperature: 72-77°F (23-25°C)

Classification:

    Order: Perciformes
    Suborder: Percoidei
    Family: Cichlidae
    Genera: Neolamprologus
    Species: brichardi

East African Lakes

Common name:

    Fairy Cichlid Brichardi, Lyretail Cichlid


Image gallery:

    Additional species photographs

Discuss:

    Badmans' Forum

Distribution

    Africa, Lake Tanganyika

General Body Form:

    Not the typical cichlid in appearance, the Brichardi is a sleek and elongated fish with the most notable characteristic being its' lyretail.


Coloration:

    A beautiful fish, the base color is tan, with small yellow scales near the start of the tail fin. The tail, dorsal and anal fins are the same as the base color and they are fringed with a blue / white edge, extending along the elongated tips of the tail fin, which really highlight the lyretail. A dark bar runs from the eye, back to the gill cover. A bright gold spot is located just above this bar.


Maintenance:

    Like all true Tanganyikan set ups the tank should be decorated with a crushed coral or similar substrate and contain lot of rocks that form caves and crevices. This is especially true for the brichardi as a retreat for each fish is a must. The rocks must be firmly anchored as these fish will dig a lot and can disrupt the aquascape and possibly hurt themselves or the aquarium. Provide open areas for swimming. Plants can be used and will not be eaten but should be placed carefully as their digging will continually uproot them. Peaceful for a cichlid they should be kept in groups as they will school outside of breeding time. Feeding is not a problem as they will accept all types of flake and frozen food, in nature they eat small animals. Good filtration is a must and frequent partial water changes are a necessity as well.


Biotope:

    Caves along the rocky bottom, near the shoreline

Breeding:

    One of the easier Lake Tanganyika cichlids to breed the brichardi is monogamous, meaning that they pair off for life. They are cave spawners and will produce around 100 fry per spawn. Excellent parents they will tend to their young for months and will take care of several spawns at the same time. If the tank becomes overcrowded with fry the parents recognize this and won't lay so many eggs on the next spawn or rarely they will eat their young to make room for the next batch. They fry are small and grow slowly but will do well if fed baby brine shrimp and finely crushed flake food.



Your comments:

 

Please remember that the following comments are personal experiences and may or may not apply to your setup. Use them as guide to help better understand your fish, like us all individuals will behave differently under different circumstances.

 


From: Amanda
Date:4/13/2010
I've got a breeding trio of N. brichardi that I've kept for about 6 months now, and have had successfully spawning for the past three. The fry are rather slow-growing (admittedly, I'm used to angels for comparison). I've been feeding them frozen bbs and an assortment of finely crushed flake and pellet foods.
I've found, whether it's typical or a quirk of my fish, that they actually don't bother plants that much as long as they have sufficient hiding spots - I provided mine with rocks, driftwood, and an assortment of nice-looking shells in the back and corners of the tank; the rest of the substrate area is densely planted. It's a very atypical setup (and nothing like their native habitat), but my water is still the hard/high pH combo that Tanganyikan cichlids love.
There are a few small areas near the rocks where they uproot any and all vegetation, but if I take care to avoid planting anything in those spots after they've made their opinion on the matter clear, they leave well enough alone. The older fry seem to really enjoy exploring and playing around the stems and leaves of the plants.
With regard to tankmates, they're not friendly towards anything that's out in the open during the day - despite being very shy in general (unlike my angels and discus, who come and greet me when I approach, the N. pulcher typically dart back into their caves and crevices, poking their noses out warily to see what I'm up to. I'll occasionally spot the male venture out, nip a pleco, and dart back to "his" rock. However, with plecos (like the Ancistrus spp. I keep) being fairly well armored, they're readily able to fend for themselves. Since they mostly eat at night while the brichardi are asleep and hiding, the two species seem to coexist peaceably. I've got both species breeding in a 30-gal tank together - of course, that means the fry (esp. the plecos) need to be relocated to grow out tanks whenever they start overcrowding, but my point is that they can be kept with carefully chosen tankmates in a relatively small space and with a substantially planted setup, as long as care is taken to provide plenty of hiding places and the tankmates don't interfere with the cichlids' schedules.
From: Yvonne
Date:6/13/2008
I purchased 6 Brichardi, two paired off and have been breeding NONSTOP since about Feb. 2008. I think I have at least 5 generations in my community African tank of 72 gallons. I do have many hiding places. The entire back of the tank has fake roots and fake multilevel wood pieces and areas of fake and live plants throughout the tank. I truly believe that each fish can have a totally different personality than another of it's own kind, just like us! ;) I rarely have issues with my Brichardi fighting with other fish and they are peaceful towards other tank mates along with their own kind. I've had a similar experience with a firemouth cichlid, which are notorious for being aggressive. My firemouth actually joined the fish that were hiding in the back of the 38 gallon tank instead of assisting their movement about the tank ...Otherwise known as "swimming". Maybe I've just been blessed in getting docile fish. I'm not a hard-core fish keeper where I monitor the water chemistry. In fact, I rarely do that. I just enjoy my fish, clean and do water changes when I can. Works for me! I wish you well.
From: Sheila
Date:11/15/2007
I have had these fish for 2 yrs, they are excellent parents and are easy to keep, but only with their own kind!!! I tried putting them with other Tanganyika cichlids and they were way to aggressive. And I even put them in with my mbuna cichlids and they even took over that tank and terrorized them, so I would suggest to anyone who keeps these fish to only put them in a tank with their own kind.
From: Steve Huffman
Date:10/31/2004
The Brichardi is a notorious jumper. If your tank is not covered, you will inevitably find dead fish on the floor around it.
From: Jessica
Date:1/12/2004
Please note, that while these are peaceful fish among their own kind and when kept singly; if you have a breeding pair or group they will kill or terrorize the other tankmates. A breeding pair will consume the entire tank in a 75 gallon or smaller.

 

 

 

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