This profile was written by Bunny an active contributor to the site.



Puntius rhomboocellatus



    An elaborate version of its cousin the Tiger Barb, this mostly peaceful fish does best as part of a small school.

Quick stats:

Listed tank sizes are the minimum
Size: Max length: 3.46 inches (8.8 cm)
Tank: Individual: 30 gallons (113.56 liters.) School 8-10: 55-80 gallons (208.0-302.8 liters) or larger.
Strata: Bottom levels
PH: pH range: 6.5 – 5.5
Hardness: Soft to medium. dH range: 4 – 10.
Temperature: 73°F to 82°F (23-28°C)


Order: Cypriniformes
Suborder: Cyprinoidei
Family: Cyprinidae
Genera: Puntius (Barbodes)
Species: Puntius rhomboocellatus


Common name:


Rhomb Barb

    , Rhombo Barb, Round-Banded Barb, Snakeskin Barb


    Southeast Asia: Indonesia. Borneo, Malaysia. Native to blackwater forest streams, peat swamps and blackwater jungle river systems including the Kapuas, Kepayang, Barito and Kahajan.

General Body Form:Typical barb form, elongated and laterally compressed. Fusiform/Streamlined body with a sail-shaped dorsal fin. Caudal fin is forked.

Coloration:Light red/orange body and head with green iridescence and deep green vertical, rhomboid bars, giving them the appearance of snake skin. The bodies of young fish are silver to peach colored with paler bars.


Maintenance:The tank should be fairly large as this like most barbs is an active swimmer and needs plenty of open spaces. Although a 36 inch may suffice I believe the standard 48 inch, 55 gallon would be better. Generally an easy to care for fish the Rhomb Barb should present few problems. Preferring to be kept in schools when young, they tend to form smaller groups when mature. Feeding is never a issue as it will eat all flake frozen as well as live food. The tank should be planted toward the rear and include some floating material if you desire. The Rhom will dig, forage and even bury itself in the gravel, so it should be fairly fine and rounded. A darker color will bring out the contrasts nicely. Water conditions are not to critical as they will adapt to almost all variations, but they will benefit from aged water and of course the partial water changes we all make (or should be). Temperature is also not a problem as you see from the quick stats the range is large with somewhere in the middle being ideal. They spend most of their time on or near the bottom so make sure its tankmates swim near the middle or top of the aquarium to give the tank a balanced look. Good tankmates for the tee barb could include other active such as Danios, Rasbora and the loaches.


    • water:
      Freshwater: Thrives in soft, slightly acidic, slow-flowing water. Native waters are stained brown from humic acids leached from decaying organic material and driftwood, a condition that may be replicated with peat filtration. A well-planted tank greatly improves water quality.
    • Diet:
      Omnivorous: Live and frozen foods such as artemia bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito larvae are preferred and produce the best coloration and health. Supplement with flakes and small pelleted foods.
    • Tank/Decor:
      Riverine biotope: Enjoys a lushly-planted tank with dark substrate and open areas for swimming. Dim lighting or surface vegetation help amplify their delicate coloration. Bogwood, branches, driftwood and leaf litter can be included to replicate their native environment.
    • Communities:
      Semi-aggressive: Excellent for medium to large aquariums with peaceful, similarly-sized, short-finned fish. Also successful with other semi-aggressive species, such as cichlids and freshwater sharks. Lively in schools of at least 6, single fish can be shy and stay hidden. Keep barbs in a ratio of 2 males: 3 females. Less aggressive than other barb species, these fish may eat smaller fish or nip fins.

Biotope:Usually inhabits clear streams strewn with rocks and boulders, frequently found below waterfalls. It is also found in the open areas of flooded swamps.


Moderate to Difficult. Oviparous: Egg scattering free-spawners. In the aquarium, spawning without intervention is possible but rare. However, as egg scatters will eat their fry, a breeding tank is recommended. The tank should be at least 20 gallons (75.7 liters,) it should be heated and contain water from the home tank that is just a few degrees warmer than usual, it should be sponge-filtered and be densely planted with java moss or some sort of baby grass or spawning mops. The parents swim back and forth releasing eggs and sperm which combine as they drift down into the plants and the pair is removed back into their main tank. Eggs hatch within 24 to 72 hours and fry are free-swimming within 2-4 days. Feed fry infusoria or brine shrimp several times a day, switching to feeding microworm or artemia nauplii as they get older. Fish reach sexual maturity when they are 3 inches long.

5/5 - (17 votes)


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here